What's a windlass, anyway?  It's a device for raising objects.  So what is being raised at The Windlass, a popular lakeside restaurant in Jefferson Township?

Let's start with appetites, which are raised by delightful aromas emanating from the Italian kitchen.  Patrons are seated by friendly servers at tables with a breathtaking view over Lake Hopatcong.  All dishes at The Windlass are prepared fresh from recipes handed down in the Spinelli family. 

The Windlass Restaurant was established in 1963 by the late Ralph Spinelli Sr., his wife Amelia, and Ralph Jr. who turned a rustic tavern frequented by fishermen and boaters into a full family restaurant.  Today, the eatery attracts people from all walks of life.  It is owned and managed by Ralph Jr. and his wife Rina, who continue the tradition of serving quality food at reasonable prices.  Ralph Sr.'s motto hangs over the door: "There are many rules for success, but only one sure rule for failure: Try pleasing everyone!"  Nevertheless, the staff seems intent on doing just that. 

The restaurant offers mouthwatering soups, entrees, and sauces. Customer favorites include Italian specialties such as eggplant parmigiana and lasagna, thick-cut charbroiled prime sirloin steaks, chicken francaise ala Chef Kevin, and chops.  The extensive seafood selection includes charbroiled sea bass, cold-water lobster tails, shrimp marinara, salmon, succulent smoked trout, and shrimp scampi.  Many diners can't resist taking home a quart of Rina's delicious homemade soup after sampling the minestrone, chicken escarole, cream of potato or other varieties. 

The Windlass also has a tempting "buon giono" breakfast menu featuring French toast, eggs prepared to  the customer's craving, meats, vegetables, seafood, breads, and a variety of drinks. 

For diners who enjoy raising a glass before eating or to accompany their choice of entree, servers and bartenders can recommend various wines and cocktails.  Spirits and voices are raised together with good humor as the leisurely meal progresses toward the grand finale: a delectable dessert.  Indulge in the irresistible chocolate truffle cake, or try one of the coffee delights. The "Windlass Special," for example, is a scrumptious concoction of cappuccino, chocolate, and cocoa served with whipped cream.  The "Cloudy Mist" combines Bailey's Irish Cream with amaretto di Saranno and hot coffee, topped with whipped cream. 

In the summer, diners who reach the restaurant by boat pass by customers enjoying their food outdoors on the "Italian Patio," where soft music plays and colorful umbrellas have been raised against the sun.  Around the patio, a lakeside garden has been created by another member of the Spinelli family, Michele Grieves, with beautiful flowers, sculpted bushes, and a lovely water fountain.  The docks are staffed by young people who are quick to assist anyone arriving or departing by motorboat, canoe, or other watercraft.  In the case of sailboats, they help guests to raise their sails and glide off with the memory of another delightful dining experience at The Windlass.

Quick facts

•  Address: 45 Nolans Point Park Road, Lake Hopatcong New Jersey 07849 (just minutes from Route 15)

•   Phone: 973-663-3190

•   Summer: Open Wednesday to Sunday

•   Offseason: Weekends Plus (watch for 2-for-1 specials)

•   Lunch: 11:30 to 3:30; dinner to 9:30

•   Breakfast: Saturday and Sunday, 8-noon (champagne breakfast Sundays off season)

•   Ambiance: Postcards of Lake Hopatcong's colorful past, paintings of modern life on the lake, a collection of crystals, nautical artifacts, a fireplace, and an 1890 potbelly stove create a cozy environment.

•   Private parties: Reserve for anniversary, birthday, bridal shower, wedding rehearsal dinner. etc.

•   Seasonal dock space: Rent slips for sailboats and motorboats.

•   From Route 80 Westbound: Take Exit 34-B for Route t5 North. Take jug handle at fourth light (Edison Road). Cross north and south lanes of Route 15 and proceed 1 mile to stop sign.  Turn left onto Espanong Road and proceed II2 mile. Turn right onto Nolan's Point Road and follow signs.

•   From Route 80 Eastbound: Take Exit 30 for Mount Arlington. Turn left onto Howard Boulevard. After 4 miles and a lot of curves, turn left onto Nolan's Point Road and follow signs.